From a young age Scott Ross knew what he wanted to do. Cook. Now 31, the executive chef of the Moat Mountain Smokehouse and Brewing Company in North Conway has been at the restaurant since 2007/ Ross is American Culinary Federation certified, a Certified Executive Chef, and says he has been in the kitchen since he was 13. Ross, talks about his love of cooking what's smoking at the restaurant and his bubbling career.
I began by washing dishes. After high school I went to the Atlantic Culinary Academy in Dover. It was Le Cordon Blue affiliated, recognized world wide, the curriculum French inspired, says Ross, a graduate of Kennett High School and the culinary program. Of Kennett's culinary program he says he learned a lot. He was at the old high school where the students worked on donated ovens in a dated facility. It was a Suzie homemaker kitchen, but what a difference in the new facility [new high school] at the high school. The kitchen has every piece of equipment you could ever want. I hope kids take advantage. I am jealous.
Ross also speaks highly of the French inspired program at Atlantic Culinary. It was French technique. I got my associates degree in a 10 month consolidated program. I loved it and would do all over again. It was hands on and the best memories, he says. We used different ingredients, exotic ingredients, made tureens, learned about chaud [hot] and froid [cold].
After an earning his associates degree and completing an internship, Ross brought his skills to the Moat Mountain Smokehouse. The 174-seat restaurant and brewery owned by Stephen Johnson and Vicky Valentino, has been in the Mount Washington Valley since July 2000, is located in the former Scottish Lion Inn and Restaurant. Ross began part- time in September 2003, by October he was named sous chef. In 2007 when the founding chef, Dan Raynard, left the position Ross earned that honor and has been there ever since. "I was here part time and liked what was going on, we put out a good product there is really something for everyone," he says. Ross adds; "Steve has done an amazing job, one of the things that sets us apart is he's kept the core group since opening. We maintain the same staff even in slow times. People come to work here and don't leave. We have fun and get the job done." The locals like it, too. "Customers come in and recognize the bartender, bar business is huge. Local people come a few times a week," adds Ross.
There is longevity of the staff and of the menu. "The menu has stayed the same for the most part. It is pretty original. People get upset if we take something off the menu," says Ross who creates nightly specials. The Moat's (local's reference) menu boasts in house smoked items, house made barbecue sauce, salad dressings, wood grilled pizza, sesame seared sushi grade yellowfin tuna, burger sliders, spicy crab cake sliders and of course Texas style dry rubbed smoked brisket, to name a few.
Speaking of the brisket. During a busy week the Moat smokes massive amounts of meat. "Six hundred to eight hundred pounds. We use electronic smokers, True hard core barbecue may not like that but the electronic keeps the temperature controlled and consistent," he says. Menu items have different flavors from all around, says Ross. Thai influence, Asian ingredients and use as many local products as possible. "There is a a little bit of everything, Burgers top notch. It is hard not to find something you like. All smoked foods are made here along with Cajun spice rub and salad dressings," he says. "Local sourcing, we are all moving in that direction. We are trying to get certified Farm to Table," he adds. In the meantime Ross uses NH maple products, milk products from NH Farms, the NH Mushroom Company, but not so much with meat, the purveyors are too small for what they order, he says.
An additional note, posted on the Moat's web site speaks to their commitment to sustainability. "We turn all our food oils into bio-diesel. All the spent grain from our brewing goes to local farms and our local bakery. We've installed solar panels to heat all the hot water we need to make cold beer-and we even reclaim the heat from our pizza ovens to help the same cause. And of course, we think BIG Cans are good for the planet too."
Ross works extensive hours. "We work long hours, but have a good core group."
When not working I can get out and try to be involved with the community. It all evens out, quality of life has been good," says Ross who keeps even busier with a new baby. It will be a busy spring with the ACH, too. Preparations are in order for the Chef of the Year, Pastry Chef of the Year Awards and the Taste of New Hampshire May 10.
Ross' take on cheffing and advise to young chefs: I think if you ask any chef everyone would say this is what I was to do this or that this is all I have ever done. He adds for his other career choice he may have followed his love for the outdoors and wildlife. The restaurant industry has been good to me. It can be stressful, not for everyone. If you are good at it, while you are young take advantage of every opportunity, the ACF, culinary institutes. Take it in. Learn as much as possible, always be willing to listen and learn it goes by quickly, enjoy it, work hard, he says.
For more information, visit: www.moatmountain.com, call 603-356-6381 or stop by 3378 White Mountain Highway Route 16, North Conway.